![]() panels shadowed by stuff on the roof rack, and fridge chugging away. The only time I've ever needed charge from my alternator for my existing setup is when heading to camp. But that also has me wondering about powering from the car, skipping the Redarc dc to dc smart charger or any isolator setup (do not own, would prefer not buy). If I return home from camping and my solar setup has blown off on the highway, I suppose that means I could connect a dumb DC power supply to it and top things off. I intend to hook up the Victron BatteryProtect with a rather high cutoff during this time to play it safe.ĭoes this sound like an appropriate plan?Īlso, the ISDT 300w/14A charger/discharger/balancer accepts DC input of 7-32v, 15A max. I'll be running this system in my living room for a week or two to get comfortable with things and observe individual cell voltage as the pack charges and discharges. If YES to BMS, since the connector will be the same (5 pin) to the BMS and the charger/discharger/balancer, is it appropriate to swap the harness from the BMS to the charger, or should there be a dedicated harness and keep the BMS hooked up permanently? Does that sound right? If not, I can get a 4S lifepo4 BMS of suitable amperage. I have no BMS, and the guy in the video seems to think that's okay because the cells shouldn't be coming out of balance in a "low C solar application". Run inverter or some significant load to drain the battery down to resting voltage of around ~3v per cell, monitoring each cell during.Connect balancing leads to cells and then hook up battery charger/discharger/balancer.Hopefully discover in step 1 that they're close enough to be paralleled to one another and left to equalize that way.A harness to make balancing leads that plug in to the ISDT unitįollowing this seemingly smart kid's guide, here's what I plan to do when I receive the above.ISDT 300w/14A smart battery charger/discharger/balancer.Victron BatteryProtect Smart-65 amp (with the new bluetooth ability, and 65a because I know I'll never exceed that.).Victron 75/15 charge controller (connected to the soon-to-be-replaced 110ah failed deep cycle) Second, I just committed to a lifepo4 setup to run my fridge and charge USB devices during the day. Certainly not enough to warrant a $150-200+ battery monitor. If I get through one of those nights and find my capacity is fine the next morning before solar starts producing, I wouldn't really care to monitor the state of things too often. If you have a rather predictable load (solar keeping battery system floating all day, fridge the only draw in the evening) could one just buy an ammeter battery monitor for 1/10th the price? I figure the worst my setup will see is an uncharacteristically warm evening 10,000 ft, and a lot of drinking after sundown.
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